The blog: Georgia through local eyes

What this blog is

This blog is about the practical side of Georgia: routes, food, traditions and the small details of the road.

Each note is short and answers one specific question.

Who writes it

The notes are written by our team and local guides who visit these places regularly.

Every note is checked by a second person before it is published.

How we choose topics

We take topics from guests' questions: what we are asked most often, we write about first.

We publish seasonal topics in good time, such as the grape harvest before autumn.

Each note carries one main tip that will come in handy on the road.

No advertising

We publish no paid notes and no hidden advertising.

We mention a place because it is worth it, not because someone paid us.

We take no commission from partners and write no prices, because they change quickly.

Tbilisi in 48 hours

On the first day, walk around Old Tbilisi, Abanotubani and Narikala.

On the second, go up Mtatsminda, and in the evening stroll by the Dry Bridge and the river.

Two days are enough to get a feel for the city, though getting to know it takes longer, of course.

Old Tbilisi's quarters

Sololaki, Kala and Avlabari are known for wooden balconies, inner courtyards and narrow streets.

Many courtyards are private, so ask politely before going in.

The quarters are full of slopes, so plan your walk for the morning or evening.

The sulphur baths

Abanotubani has baths fed by natural sulphur springs, which also gave the city its name.

Most offer private rooms that you book in advance.

Avoid staying in the hot water too long, and drink plenty of water.

The cable car and Narikala

The cable car takes you from Rike Park up to Narikala fortress in a few minutes.

From the fortress there is a view of the old city and the Mtkvari valley.

Walk back down through the botanical garden or towards the baths.

The Tbilisi metro

The Tbilisi metro is very deep, and at some stations the escalator ride takes several minutes.

Trains run frequently and connect the centre with the main districts.

Carriages are packed at rush hour, so avoid it with big luggage.

The Dry Bridge market

By the Dry Bridge there is a market of old objects, paintings and Soviet souvenirs.

Bargaining is expected, and a conversation that starts with a smile always ends better.

Taking antiques out of the country may need a permit, so check before you buy.

The Dezerter bazaar

The Dezerter bazaar is Tbilisi's main food market: fruit, cheese, spices and churchkhela.

Sellers often offer a taste, and it does not oblige you to buy.

In the morning the market is fresher and less crowded.

Mtskheta in a day

Mtskheta, the old capital, is close to Tbilisi and known for its UNESCO heritage monuments.

Svetitskhoveli stands in the town centre, while Jvari monastery looks down on the rivers' confluence from above.

Have clothing suitable for churches to hand.

The road to Kazbegi

The Georgian Military Road runs to Kazbegi via Ananuri, Gudauri and the Jvari Pass.

Gergeti Trinity Church stands above Stepantsminda, and you reach it on foot or by car.

A day trip is possible, but staying the night shows you the mountains in a completely different way.

The pass in winter

In winter the Jvari Pass sometimes closes for hours or days because of snow or avalanche risk.

Check the road status with an official source before setting off.

Winter tyres and a flexible plan are essential at this time.

Sighnaghi and Kakheti

Sighnaghi is a small walled town with views of the Alazani valley and the Caucasus.

Its wedding house works around the clock, which is why it is called the city of love.

In Kakheti's villages you visit family cellars and taste local cooking.

Rtveli

Rtveli, the grape harvest, takes place mainly in September and October.

At this time families pick together, press the grapes and lay a feast.

Some families invite guests to join the picking, and we arrange this in advance.

The qvevri

A qvevri is a large clay vessel buried in the ground, in which wine is made.

The tradition of qvevri winemaking is on UNESCO's list of intangible heritage.

In a cellar they will also show you the craft of cleaning and sealing a qvevri.

The road to Tusheti

The road to Tusheti crosses the Abano Pass and is usually open only in the summer months.

The road is narrow and unpaved, and only experienced drivers in four-wheel-drive vehicles take it.

Opening and closing dates depend on the snow and change every year.

The towers of Svaneti

Svan towers were built in the Middle Ages to defend families and are still the symbol of the villages.

In Mestia you can see the towers and the museum.

In some towers families let guests inside, with permission.

Ushguli

Ushguli is often called one of the highest permanently inhabited places in Europe.

The road from Mestia takes several hours and depends on the weather.

Behind the village rises Shkhara, Georgia's highest peak.

Vardzia

Vardzia is a cave monastery carved into the rock, built in the twelfth century under Queen Tamar.

The complex involves many stairs and narrow tunnels, so wear comfortable shoes.

On the way, visit Khertvisi fortress and the villages of the nearby valley.

Uplistsikhe

Uplistsikhe is an ancient rock-cut town near Gori.

Here you will see halls, streets and the remains of a temple cut into the stone.

There is little shade in summer, so go in the morning and take water.

Borjomi

Borjomi is known for its mineral water and forested valley.

In the central park you can taste warm mineral water straight from the spring.

Bakuriani, where people ski in winter, is close by.

Kutaisi and the caves

Kutaisi is the main city of western Georgia, with Bagrati Cathedral and nearby Gelati.

Prometheus Cave is close to the city, with great halls of stalactites.

It is cool in the cave, so take a light jacket even in summer.

Martvili Canyon

In Martvili Canyon, turquoise water and waterfalls run through the forest.

On some stretches you can take a boat, depending on the weather and water level.

You can see the western canyons in a day from Kutaisi.

Batumi

Batumi is a seaside city with modern architecture and a long boulevard.

The beach is pebbly, so water shoes come in handy.

An evening stroll along the boulevard is a favourite local habit.

Batumi Botanical Garden

The botanical garden is laid out on a hillside above the sea, north of the city.

Here you will see plants from different corners of the world.

The garden is large and hilly, so set aside half a day.

Tea in Guria

Guria and Imereti have a long tradition of tea plantations.

In recent years small farms have been reviving hand-picked tea.

Some farms offer tastings and picking demonstrations, by prior arrangement.

The art of eating khinkali

Khinkali are eaten by hand: hold them by the knot, take a small bite and drink the broth first.

The knot is usually left on the plate, and many people count them.

Fillings vary: meat, mushroom, cheese or potato, so ask when ordering.

Kinds of khachapuri

Imeruli khachapuri is round and filled with cheese, while Megruli is also topped with cheese.

Adjaruli is boat-shaped, with egg and butter.

One khachapuri is often enough for two or three.

Georgian bread

Shoti is baked in a tone, a round clay oven, with the dough pressed onto its wall.

Hot bread straight from the tone tastes best.

Neighbourhood bakeries, often in basements, bake from morning to evening.

Churchkhela

Churchkhela is walnuts or hazelnuts on a string, dipped in thick grape pulp and dried.

It is made in autumn, after the harvest, but sold all year round.

It is a good snack on the road and keeps easily as a souvenir.

The feast and the tamada

A large feast is led by a tamada, who sets the order of the toasts.

Pausing the conversation and listening during toasts is a sign of respect.

A guest can join in with juice or water, and that is perfectly normal.

Polyphony

Georgian polyphonic singing is recognised by UNESCO as part of humanity's heritage.

You can hear church chant and folk songs at concerts or sometimes at the table.

Svaneti and Guria have particularly distinctive styles.

Dance

Georgian dance is energetic and precise, and often tells stories of mountain life.

You can see folk ensembles at the theatre or at festivals.

At weddings and big feasts, guests are invited to dance too.

Tbilisoba

Tbilisoba is the city's festival, celebrated in October.

The streets fill with fairs, concerts and harvest produce.

The centre is crowded on these days, so book accommodation in good time.

Village festivals

Many villages have their own festival, often named after the local church.

On that day families gather, and guests are gladly welcomed.

Ask locals about the date, as it is not always published.

Name days

Many people in Georgia celebrate their name day, the feast of their saint.

On Giorgoba, for example, countless Giorgis across the country receive congratulations.

If it is your host's name day, a small gesture brings great joy.

Hospitality

A Georgian saying calls a guest a gift from God, and the attitude is still very much alive.

In a village you will often be invited for coffee, fruit or a meal.

A polite refusal is fine, but accepting often becomes the best memory of the trip.

Riding a marshrutka

The marshrutka, a minibus, is the most common transport between towns and villages.

It often leaves the bus station when it fills up and picks up passengers on the way.

Tell the driver your destination in advance so they stop in the right place.

By train to Batumi

A comfortable train runs between Tbilisi and Batumi.

In summer tickets sell out fast, so book in good time.

From the window you see the green valleys of Imereti and Guria.

Shepherd dogs

On mountain pastures, shepherd dogs guard the flocks and greet strangers loudly.

Do not run from them; stop calmly and call the shepherd.

Walk around a flock in a wide arc.

Hiking etiquette

In the mountains, take your rubbish with you and stay on the trail.

Leave your route and return time with someone.

On trails through villages, greet the locals, who often give useful advice.

Winter resorts

Gudauri and Bakuriani are the most popular ski resorts.

Gudauri is known for freeriding, Bakuriani for family holidays.

Check avalanche information before heading off-piste.

The sea in summer

The beach season mainly lasts from June to September.

The coast is crowded in July and August, while in September the water is still warm.

Pay special attention to sun protection and shade around midday.

The best light for photos

Views of Tbilisi are best at sunset, as the first lights come on.

In the mountains the morning light is clearer, while mist and clouds build up by midday.

Always ask permission before photographing people.

The Georgian script

The living culture of the three writing systems of the Georgian alphabet is on UNESCO's intangible heritage list.

Items with Georgian letters, such as jewellery or mugs, are popular souvenirs.

Writing your own name in Georgian is a favourite pastime for guests.

Tbilisi on foot

Tbilisi is built on hills, and the streets are often steep.

Walking is the best way to get to know the city, but plan rest stops.

When you tire, a taxi app or the metro is always close.

A rainy day

On a rainy day, visit Tbilisi's museums and galleries.

Cafes and workshops opened in old industrial buildings make good shelter too.

A Georgian cooking masterclass is an excellent alternative on a rainy day.

With children

Mtatsminda Park above the city, with its rides and views, is a children's favourite.

Going up by funicular is an adventure in itself.

After the big city, children love resting in a village among the animals.

Planning your budget

In the low season, accommodation and transport are more affordable.

Local eateries are often better and more authentic than tourist restaurants.

We do not write prices in the blog, because they change quickly.

How we update the notes

We check notes regularly, especially roads, timetables and seasonal dates.

When something changes, we correct the text rather than adding a new note.

On official rules, the final answer is always from the official source.

Suggest a topic

If you have a question the blog does not answer, write to us.

We turn the most frequent questions into new notes.

We are also glad to hear about your experience if something on the road was different.

Quoting and sharing

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Ask our permission before publishing the text or a photo elsewhere.

The photos are ours or published with the author's permission.

What we do not do

We publish no paid notes and no hidden advertising.

The blog is not an official source and gives no legal or medical advice.

We take no commission from partners.

Cost

The blog is open to everyone.

If you would like a route described in a note organised, the fee is agreed according to the scope of the work.

You pay partners directly, and we take no commission from them.