The Georgian supra

What a supra is

The word supra means both the laid table and the feast held around it. For Georgians it is a place for conversation, memory and friendship.

A supra has rules: a leader, an order of toasts and singing. That is exactly what sets it apart from an ordinary dinner.

What we do

We plan the supra for your guests: we choose the setting, the tamada, the menu, the wine and the singers, and tie it all into one evening.

The restaurant, host family or ensemble quotes you its own price, and you settle the bill with them. We tell you what our service costs before any work begins.

A first supra for a foreigner

Anyone sitting at a supra for the first time often cannot work out why one man talks for so long with a glass in his hand.

So at the start of the evening the tamada or our coordinator briefly explains the rules of the table.

Once guests know what is happening, a toast no longer feels like a drawn-out pause.

The tamada

The tamada is the person chosen by hosts and guests and trusted with the floor and the running of the evening.

The tamada decides when the next toast is made, who is given the word and when the singing begins.

A good tamada senses when to slow the pace and when to lift a table that is flagging.

How we choose the tamada

Language comes first: the tamada either speaks to your guests directly or has an interpreter sitting alongside.

The second criterion is humour and a sense of measure, because nobody needs a two-hour monologue.

We brief the tamada on the guests in advance: who they are, what they are celebrating and what they would like to hear.

The order of toasts

As a rule the supra opens with a toast to peace or to the meeting itself.

Then come toasts to the homeland, to parents, to those who have died, to children, to friends and to love.

The exact order changes from family to family and region to region, and that is part of its charm.

Alaverdi

The tamada can hand a toast's theme to another guest, and this is called alaverdi.

Whoever receives the alaverdi continues the same theme in their own words and from their own experience.

A foreign guest may be given an alaverdi too, and a short, sincere reply is quite enough.

The merikipe

The merikipe is the person who pours the wine and keeps a careful eye on the glasses.

At a traditional supra guests do not pour for themselves - that is the merikipe's job.

If you want no more, simply leave your glass a little full or tell the merikipe politely.

The horn and the glasses

The kantsi is a drinking horn made from the horn of a wild goat or an ox, and it appears for a special toast.

You cannot put a horn down on the table, so people joke that it has to be emptied.

A guest can always take a sip and pass it to a neighbour, and nobody will take offence.

How much to drink

Drinking after a toast is tradition, but draining the glass every time is not required.

Many Georgians follow a toast with a single sip and drink to the bottom only for a few important ones.

We advise guests to set their own pace from the start of the evening and to drink water often.

If you do not drink at all

It is perfectly possible to sit at a supra without wine, and you owe nobody an explanation.

You can raise lemonade, juice or water for a toast, and it will be taken as a mark of respect.

We warn the tamada in advance so that nobody pesters guests who are not drinking.

Beer and toasts

By an old belief, good toasts are not drunk with beer, because beer was reserved for toasting enemies.

Many people treat this as a joke today, but at a traditional supra the rule is still alive.

If you prefer beer, drink it freely - just raise wine or a soft drink for the toasts.

Chacha

Chacha is a strong spirit distilled from grape pomace, and some families offer it at the start or the end of a supra.

It is often far stronger than wine, so even a small glass is enough.

We suggest foreign guests do not mix chacha with wine and take it just for a taste.

How long it lasts

A family supra easily lasts four or five hours, and sometimes runs past midnight.

For foreign guests we often plan a three-hour format with fewer toasts.

We agree the length with the tamada in advance so the evening fits your schedule.

The order of dishes

Before guests arrive the table fills with cold dishes: pkhali, cheese, pickles, aubergine with walnuts and fresh herbs.

Then the hot food appears gradually: khachapuri, mtsvadi, chakapuli or khinkali, depending on the season.

At a Georgian supra an empty plate embarrasses the host, so nobody expects you to finish everything.

A Kakhetian supra

In Kakheti the supra revolves around wine: white and red qvevri wine, often from the host's own cellar.

On the menu you will find mtsvadi grilled over vine embers, chakapuli, shoti bread from the tone oven and churchkhela.

The Kakhetian supra is known for its traditional songs, and the longest toasts are often heard there.

An Imeretian supra

In Imereti the supra is lighter and rich in herbs, and the wine is more acidic and fresh.

Imeretian khachapuri, jonjoli, pkhali and fresh cheese are the central dishes here.

Imeretian hosts are known for humour and quick talk, so the evening turns out lively.

A Megrelian supra

The Samegrelo table is spicy: adjika, elarji, ghomi, kuchmachi and sulguni.

We warn guests who are not used to heat and ask the host for milder versions.

A Megrelian supra is often noisier, and its songs ring out with different melodies.

A Svan and mountain supra

In Svaneti the table holds kubdari, chvishtari, tashmijabi and Svan salt.

In the mountains toasts often resemble old prayers and are dedicated to the memory of ancestors.

A mountain supra is small and homely, so we spread a large group across several houses.

An Adjarian and seaside supra

In Adjara the star of the table is Adjarian khachapuri, with egg and butter.

In mountainous Adjara borano and sinori are made, while by the sea fish is more common.

Here the rhythm of toasts is often looser, especially on summer evenings.

A Tbilisi supra

Tbilisi brings together the traditions of every region, and the city supra is the most varied.

The old Tbilisi supra was once famous for its songs, city romances and jokes.

In the city it is easiest to choose between traditional and modern cooking.

In a family home

A supra laid in the host's home is the most heartfelt experience.

Here family members cook, the tamada is often the head of the household, and the wine comes from their own cellar.

We have known these families for years and know which ones gladly welcome foreign guests.

In a wine cellar

In a cellar the supra is laid beside the qvevri, near the vessels buried in the ground where the wine matures.

Before the meal the winemaker often holds a tasting and explains how the grapes are pressed and fermented.

A cellar supra pairs well with a day tour in Kakheti or Imereti.

In a restaurant

For a big group or guests short on time, a restaurant is the most practical choice.

We choose a restaurant with a private room where singing does not disturb neighbouring tables.

We fix the menu in advance so the kitchen brings dishes in the right order and on time.

In a village courtyard

In the warm season the supra is often laid in the courtyard, under the vines.

The mtsvadi grills in front of you, and guests can help the host turn the skewers.

For an open-air evening we always keep a covered corner in case of rain.

Polyphonic singing

Georgian folk song is in three voices, and at a supra the guests themselves often sing.

A professional ensemble performs a few songs between toasts and brings new life to the table.

Singers often explain what a song is about and teach guests a simple refrain.

Chakrulo

Chakrulo is a Kakhetian table song, complex and powerful, built on a dialogue between two tenors.

In 1977 it was recorded on the Voyager Golden Record, which flew into space.

Foreign guests often learn this story at the supra itself and remember it for a long time.

Dancing

Towards the end of a supra dancing often starts, and hosts invite guests into the circle.

Nobody expects you to master the difficult moves of Georgian dance - following the rhythm is enough.

We book professional dancers separately and describe them on the folklore page.

Table etiquette

During a toast it is not customary to talk or eat; attention is on the tamada.

Nobody drinks before the toast ends, and people look the speaker in the eye.

For some toasts, such as the one in memory of the dead, glasses are not clinked.

Your own words

Guests at a supra are often asked to make a toast themselves.

You need no eloquence for it: thanks to the hosts and a wish for their family is quite enough.

If you like, we can help you learn two or three Georgian words beforehand, such as gaumarjos.

Women at the supra

Traditionally the tamada was a man, but today you will more and more often meet a woman in the role.

At a modern supra women make toasts and receive the alaverdi too.

If this matters to you, we choose the tamada on that basis.

Children at the supra

At a Georgian supra children are ordinary guests and often play in the courtyard.

For a long evening we set up a separate corner and simple dishes for children.

If the supra ends late, we offer parents separate transport so they can leave early.

Fasting

During Orthodox fasts many families eat no meat or dairy.

At such times the supra is a fasting one: lobio, pkhali, mushrooms, vegetables and walnut sauces.

For a foreign guest this is simply another option, and no less delicious.

Vegetarian and vegan guests

Georgian cooking is very rich in vegetables, so a supra without meat is no poorer.

For vegans we remove cheese and butter and order the pastries separately.

We give the cook an exact list in advance so there is no last-minute improvising.

Halal and kosher

We agree a halal menu with restaurants where the origin of the meat is confirmed.

For strict kosher requirements we look for a specialised supplier.

At such a supra soft drinks and tea take the place of wine, and the toasts are still made.

Allergies

Walnuts are almost everywhere in Georgian cooking, and a walnut allergy calls for special care.

We inform the cook about allergies in writing, in Georgian.

We place such dishes separately on the table so the guest knows exactly what is safe.

An interpreter

When the tamada does not speak the guests' language, an interpreter sits alongside.

A good interpreter does not translate a toast word for word but carries across its meaning and humour.

At a bilingual supra some toasts are made in one language and some in the other.

A corporate supra

For companies a supra is a popular way to welcome guests or bring a team together.

At such an evening the tamada links the toasts to business themes too, at a measured pace.

We cover the details of large corporate events on the MICE page.

A large group

With more than a hundred guests one tamada often cannot reach everyone, so we appoint helpers between the tables.

A sound system is essential so the furthest table can hear the words.

For a large group we write the supra programme in advance and space out the singers' performances.

A small supra

A supra works for two or four people as well, together with the host family.

At a small supra the conversation is more personal, and the tamada is often the host.

It is a good choice for a couple or a family who are not drawn to noise.

A supra as part of a tour

On many of our tours a supra is one of the evenings, often in Kakheti or Imereti.

We keep a tour supra to a set length so guests are rested the next day.

Our tours are described in a separate section.

A supra and a cooking class

Before the supra guests can make khinkali or khachapuri with the host.

A dish made with your own hands tastes quite different at the table.

We describe cooking classes in a separate section.

Photos and video

Filming a supra is normal, but raising a phone during a toast can feel awkward.

That is why we recommend a photographer who works unnoticed.

Before filming in a family home we always ask the hosts for permission.

The mourning table

Georgia also has the kelekhi, a mourning supra held after a funeral.

There the toasts are different, no festive songs are sung and glasses are not clinked.

The kelekhi is a private family ritual, and we do not arrange it as part of a tourist programme.

The harvest supra

In September and October it is rtveli, the grape harvest, in Kakheti, and a picking day often ends with a supra.

Guests pick grapes in the morning, press them at midday and sit down with the host in the evening.

Harvest supra places fill quickly, so we book them early.

The winter supra

In winter the supra is laid by the fireplace or in the cellar, and the dishes are heavier.

Around New Year satsivi, gozinaki and churchkhela appear on the table.

A winter supra is a good reason to visit the country in the season when tourists are few.

After the supra

Driving after an evening of wine is out of the question, so we arrange transport in advance.

For a supra outside the city, the driver waits for guests until the end of the evening.

If the place is far away, we suggest staying overnight at a nearby hotel or in the host's home.

The morning after

After a big supra we plan a light programme for the next morning.

The tradition of khashi is tied to precisely the morning after a supra, and trying it is an adventure for some.

We do not schedule early departures or long hikes for the day after a supra.

Remembering the supra

Guests often want to remember what the toasts said.

On request we collect the tamada's main toasts in a short note in your language.

The host's recipe cards make the best souvenir to take home.

For foreigners living here

Foreigners living here often host Georgian colleagues or neighbours themselves.

In that case we help you put together the right order of toasts and the menu.

Georgian guests always appreciate a host who respects their tradition.

Common mistakes

Draining the glass on the first toasts and flagging halfway through the evening.

A tamada who cannot reach the guests' language and has no interpreter.

A supra outside the city with no transport arranged for the way back.

Timelines

A small supra in a family home can often be arranged in a week or two.

A large group, an ensemble or a well-known tamada must be booked months ahead.

During the harvest and the New Year period, supra places are the first to go.

Cancellation

Host families and restaurants buy produce in advance, so a late cancellation is a loss for them.

We confirm the cancellation terms with each supplier separately and send them to you in writing.

Please let us know about any change in guest numbers as early as possible.

What we need from you

The number of guests, their countries and their languages.

The reason for the evening, the length you would like and how much tradition you want.

Dietary needs, allergies and who does not drink alcohol.

What it costs

The price of a supra depends mainly on the number of guests, the menu, the wine and the singers.

The venue, host and ensemble set those prices, and we put nothing on top.

Our organising fee is a separate line and is based on the scale of the supra.