Cloisonne enamel

Who this is for

Travellers who want a genuinely handmade piece of jewellery or an object from Georgia, not a factory copy.

Also couples looking for wedding jewellery, and companies ordering enamel gifts.

Our role

We neither make nor sell enamel: we introduce you to masters and help with judging quality, placing an order and shipping.

You pay the master or shop directly for the piece, and we never hold your money. We take no commission from masters or shops, and the fee for our help is agreed in advance.

How it is made

Thin ribbons of gold or silver are set on edge on a metal base, forming small cells.

The cells are filled with powdered coloured glass and fired in a kiln at high temperature until the glass melts and hardens.

Layers and firings are repeated several times, and finally the surface is polished until it is mirror-smooth.

History

The golden age of Georgian enamel belongs to the Middle Ages, when it adorned icons, crosses and church objects.

The most famous example is the Khakhuli Triptych, which carries more than a hundred enamel plaques.

The triptych is kept in the treasury of the Georgian National Museum in Tbilisi, and seeing it before visiting a master is well worth it.

A modern revival

The craft was revived in the twentieth century, and today many masters work in Tbilisi.

Some repeat medieval motifs, while others use the technique in thoroughly contemporary design.

Both directions are legitimate, and the choice depends only on your taste.

The base metal

Enamel is made on gold, silver or copper.

Gold and silver raise the price and carry an assay mark, while copper gives an affordable, often gilded option.

When buying, always ask what the base metal is and what the partitions are made of.

Jewellery

The most popular purchases are earrings, pendants, rings and brooches.

A pendant is the safest gift, since it needs no sizing.

We confirm ring size before buying, because an enamelled ring cannot always be enlarged.

For men

Cufflinks, a tie pin or a lapel badge make an elegant choice for a man.

A letter of the Georgian alphabet or a borjgali looks understated and modern on such a piece.

Some masters also decorate watch dials with enamel.

Objects for the home

Enamelled boxes, mirrors, wall panels and drinking-horn mounts decorate a home.

A large panel needs many firings and weeks of work, so it is often made to order.

Such a piece needs rigid packing, because a knock can chip the edge of the glass.

Motifs

Popular motifs include the borjgali, the grapevine cross, the pomegranate, the peacock and letters of the Georgian alphabet.

Among church motifs, Saint George, the Virgin and the cross are common.

The master will gladly tell you what a motif means, which makes the piece even more personal.

Colours

Medieval Georgian enamel is known for deep blue, turquoise, red, white and green.

Colour depends on the composition of the glass, and some colours are especially hard to achieve in firing.

Transparent and opaque enamel reflect light differently, and both are genuine.

Signs of quality

On a good piece the partitions are even and fine, and the glass fills each cell completely.

The surface is smooth, without bubbles, pores or dips.

The back of the piece is finished too, which shows the master's care.

Natural variation in handwork

Two matching handmade earrings differ slightly from each other.

Perfect symmetry and dozens of completely identical pieces often point to factory production.

A small difference is not a flaw but a sign of handwork.

Cold enamel

Some pieces are filled with coloured resin instead of glass, which is never fired in a kiln.

Resin is light, feels warm to the touch and lacks the depth and gleam of glass.

Such a piece may be pretty, but its price should not be the price of enamel.

Factory pieces

In tourist spots many pieces are made on a stamped base, where the partitions were not set by hand.

On such pieces the lines are too straight and uniform.

In a shop, simply ask who made the piece and whether you can see their workshop.

Master's mark and certificate

Many masters leave their own mark or initials on a piece.

A valuable piece often comes with a certificate signed by the master, describing materials and technique.

The certificate is useful at customs and for insurance.

Assay marks

Gold and silver pieces should carry an assay mark.

The mark confirms the purity of the metal and is one basis for a fair price.

If no mark is visible, ask the master and request written confirmation.

Where to buy

Enamel is sold in shops and galleries in Old Tbilisi and directly in masters' workshops.

A workshop often has less choice, but the price and information are more transparent.

Enamel is also sold at the airport, but the choice there is small.

A workshop visit

In a workshop you see how a partition is bent, how a cell is filled and how a piece comes out of the kiln.

The visit makes the price understandable: one small pendant takes several hours of work and several firings.

We arrange the visit with the master in advance, so as not to interrupt their work.

Make your own

Some workshops offer a short masterclass where you make your own piece.

In a few hours a simple pendant is ready for you to take home.

We write about craft classes in the masterclasses section.

Photos in the workshop

We ask the master's permission before taking photos in the workshop.

Some masters do not show their technical tricks or new sketches, and that is their right.

A video of the process, if the master agrees, becomes a lovely part of the piece's story.

A piece for generations

Enamel pieces are often handed down in families to children and grandchildren.

The glass does not lose colour over time, and with proper care a piece lasts for decades.

That is why it is often chosen for a special date: a child's birth, a wedding or an anniversary.

Custom orders

A master can make a piece with your name, initials, a family symbol or a date.

An order starts with a sketch, followed by agreement on colour and size.

You approve the sketch in writing, and only then does work begin.

Order timing

A custom piece usually takes several weeks.

A firing sometimes fails, and the master has to make the piece again.

So we place the order at the start of your trip, or ship the finished piece afterwards.

A name in Georgian letters

A name in the Georgian alphabet is one of the most popular enamel orders.

We prepare the transliteration in advance so that the name sounds right.

Rounded Georgian letters sit especially beautifully in enamel cells.

Wedding jewellery

Some couples order wedding rings or bridal jewellery in enamel.

Such an order should start several months before the wedding.

We measure ring size twice, on a cool and a warm day, because finger size changes.

Corporate gifts

A company logo in enamel is an elegant and lasting gift.

The master adapts the logo to the cloisonne technique, since very fine detail sometimes has to be simplified.

A series of identical pieces takes longer than a single one, and we plan with that in mind.

Church objects

Enamel icons and crosses continue the oldest tradition of Georgian art.

We treat such pieces with respect, and if you wish, they can be blessed in a church.

Old church enamel is a matter for the antiques page, where we cover it separately.

Allergies

For sensitive skin, gold and silver are safer than a copper or alloy base.

Earring hooks are sometimes made of a separate metal and can be replaced.

If you have an allergy, ask the master about every metal used before buying.

For children

A small pendant with a letter of the alphabet makes a lovely keepsake for a child.

Because of the small parts, such a piece is not suitable as a toy for young children.

For a child we choose a short, sturdy chain.

What sets the price

The price is set by the metal, size, number of colours, number of firings and the master's name.

Gold partitions and multi-layered glass raise the price considerably.

A suspiciously low price often means the piece is factory-made or resin.

Talking about price

In a master's workshop or a gallery the price is usually fixed.

When buying several pieces a small discount is sometimes possible, but market-style haggling is not the custom here.

Respect for the master's work makes the relationship, and any future order, easier.

Payment

Card payment is normal in shops and galleries.

A workshop sometimes accepts only cash or a bank transfer.

For a custom order the master often asks for part in advance and the rest on handover.

The receipt

The receipt should state the description of the piece, the metal, the master's name and the price.

The receipt is also useful for a VAT refund, if the shop takes part in that scheme.

When buying from a workshop, the master's certificate also serves as the receipt.

Care

Glass is hard but brittle: a strong knock or a fall on the floor can crack it.

Clean the piece with a soft cloth, without harsh chemicals or an ultrasonic cleaner.

Take jewellery off before sport, swimming and housework.

Storage

Keep each piece separately, in a soft pouch or box, so pieces do not rub against each other.

Silver tarnishes in air, so clean it carefully around the enamel.

Moisture does not harm the glass, but the metal and clasp are better kept somewhere dry.

Repairs

A crack or chipped edge can often be repaired, though sometimes it needs refiring.

It is best to have the repair done by the master who made the piece.

Sending a piece back from abroad for repair is possible, and we arrange it.

Old enamel

Buying old enamel is a question of antiques and export rules.

A contemporary master's work is usually not subject to such restrictions.

We explain the details on the antiques page.

In your cabin bag

Enamel jewellery is small and light, and travels most safely in your cabin bag.

Keep the box and the certificate together.

We do not advise putting a valuable piece in checked baggage.

Customs

Some countries require gold and valuable jewellery above a certain value to be declared on entry.

The receipt and certificate prove the value and save time at customs.

We check your country's threshold before you buy.

Shipping

A custom order finished after your trip is sent by courier.

We send the parcel with a declared value and insurance.

Before sending, we send you photos and a video of the finished piece.

Gift wrapping

Many masters hand over a piece in their own box, with a description of the motif.

We add a card explaining the motif to a gift, so the recipient knows its story too.

For a corporate gift we prepare the box in the company's style.

The museum before buying

Seeing the National Museum treasury trains your eye and gives you a sense of quality.

After a medieval piece, the fineness of partitions and depth of colour in a shop look different.

We combine the museum visit and a workshop in one day.

Time on your trip

Half a day is enough for enamel: the museum, one or two workshops and a gallery.

For a custom order it is best to meet the master in the first days.

At the end of the trip we collect the finished piece and check it together.

An interpreter

Many masters speak English or Russian, but discussing technical details in their own language is more precise.

An interpreter is especially useful when agreeing the sketch, colours and size.

Our interpreter takes no commission from masters.

Ordering remotely

You can order a piece from a master without coming to Georgia.

We exchange the sketch, colour samples and progress photos electronically.

You pay the advance directly to the master, and we ship the finished piece.

Respecting the master's design

A master's design is their intellectual property.

We do not order exact copies of another master's work.

If you saw and liked a piece online, we first look for its maker.

Common mistakes

Buying a resin or factory piece at a handmade price.

Starting a custom order in the last days of the trip.

Buying a valuable piece without a certificate or receipt.

What we need from you

What kind of piece interests you, and who it is for.

Your preferred metal, motif and colours.

Your budget range and how much time you have.

Cost

The master or shop sets the price of the piece, and you pay them directly.

We take no commission from masters, shops or galleries.

The fee for our help is separate and agreed in advance.